The guide in charge of your climb will be one of our local experienced & professional IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guides.
Climb one of the highest mountains in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range. The climb is particularly suitable for those who have climbing experience, strong, fit and well acclimatized to the altitude and able to carry a backpack with your personal and climbing gear.
June to August
| Grade: | 2/B | |
| Length: | 4 Days | |
| Route: | SW Ridge | |
| Maximum altitude: | 6354m | |
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| Pickup and Drop-off: | We will collect and return you to any hotel located within Huaraz City. | |
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You are picked up at your accommodation and begin the journey with a spectacular scenic drive along the Callejon de Huaylas Valley and then into the Huascaran National Park, past the turquoise Llanganuco Lakes to Curva de Chopicalqui 4050m (3½ hours drive).
A demanding day as we now have to carry all equipment, tents and food and climb up through moraine rocks. We climb up the rocky ridge for an hour and then cross down the other side of the ridge and climb more steeply over large moraine rocks to Moraine Camp (4900m). 6 hours hike.
Steady climb up loose moraine rock for 1½ hours before reaching the glacier. We need to cross the first ½ hour on the ice early and quickly to avoid falling rocks.
About 4 hours more steady climbing on up to 30 deg. crevassed snow slopes, we will go carefully to negotiate around the crevasses or sometimes we will cross over the crevasses and then we reach High Camp on the snow at 5400m.
Climb to the summit. The first few hours are steady climbing. There are crevasses and seracs to avoid as we climb 40 to 50 deg. slopes to the summit shoulder. There is then an easy 45 deg. slope before there may be a large crevasse to cross, then up to 55 deg. climbing on the ridge with some short steep ice walls to climb. The last 200m to the false summit is demanding with some steep & technical climbing with a series of pitches from 50m to 60m in length and grades from 45 deg up to about 65 deg at the steepest. There is a large crevasse near the summit to negotiate and then we are high on the summit at 6354m. From the summit we descend back by climbing and abseiling to High Camp and after a short break we continue down to Moraine Camp. From 12 to 14 hours activity for the day.
June to August
We really enjoyed climbing with Rodolfo. He was an excellent guide. We had an amazing trip and can’t wait to get back there!!. James, USA
Rodolfo’s guiding service was truly great with the first rule being that of safety which is what it should be. Christopher, USA
I had an amazing trip! A once in a lifetime experience, and memories I will cherish forever … the entire experience from booking to climbing was exceptional, I couldn’t expect higher standards. Adam, USA
I had a really great time in Peru! Thank you again for being a great guide. Illiana, USA
