You are picked up at your accommodation and begin the journey with a spectacular scenic drive along the Callejon de Huaylas Valley and then up to the Village of Pashpa and Cochapampa. 1 hour drive. Here our gear is loaded onto the donkeys and we walk up the valley Quebrada Ishinca on a gently rising path to our camp at the head of the valley. This is a lovely walk, passing through Quenual forest. As we walk up the valley it opens out, and we see Tocllaraju ahead. Base Camp is at 4390m. 4 to 5 hours hike
Day 2: Ishinca 5530m Summit Attempt
We leave camp at 2am. A steady climb initially on a good path to Lake Ishinca 3 hours. Some of the way is over loose stones and large moraine rocks until we reach the glacier. We climb the north-west slopes of Ishinca, a steady slope, not too steep apart from the final 25m to the summit. In some years depending on the condition of the glacier, there can be some short steep sections or hard ice, but we will assist with this. About 3½ hours on the glacier to the summit. Depending on conditions on the mountain, we may instead climb the East face of Ishinca, approaching from the Ranrapalca glacier. This side is also a moderate climb (not technical) and suitable for beginners. Return the same way to Base Camp. 10 to 12 hours depending on fitness.
We leave Base Camp around 10am. Today we need to carry all our equipment and hike up to High Camp of Tocllaraju. A steep climb on a moraine ridge and across large moraine rocks for 3 hours to where we set up our camp on the moraine immediately below the glacier at Moraine Camp at 5000m.
We leave camp early around 1am and climb to the summit. From the Moraine Camp we climb up the glacier to a shoulder at 5300m. We cross the bowl through complex crevasses heading towards the summit. We then climb a not too steep slope a long a ridge, until we reach a large crevasse at the start of the North West ridge which we follow to the summit of Tocllaraju. In some years there is an impassable bergschrund high on the mountain. From the summit, we descend with several rappels, collect our things from the camp and return down to base camp. 10 to 12 hours activity. Slope angles between 50° to 70°.
Walk out the valley and return to Huaraz. 3 hours walk.
What to Bring
*Duffel bag or backpack – to carry your main gear on donkeys
*Layers of warm fleece or polypro clothing
*4 Season Sleeping bag
*Warm hat
*Sunhat or cap
*Day backpack (for trek into Base Camp)
*Large backpack for carrying gear to high camp 50L
*Mountaineering Sun glasses (UV)
*Sunscreen
*1 pair of Goretex gloves with 1 pair woollen inside gloves
*Overmittens – wind and waterproof
*Socks – 2 pair for climbing in
*Snow Gaiters
*Down jacket
*Rain proof jacket
*Rain proof over trousers
*Thermal long johns
*Personal First aid kit.
*Water bottle
*Head lamp + spare batteries
*Inflatable sleeping pad
Technical Gear
*Helmet
*Ice axes – 2 technical ice tools
*Harness
*ATC – XP Belay device
*4 locking karabiners
*2 simple karabiners
*Leather climbing boots
*1 x ice screw
*Crampons plus snow anti blocks
*Prussic: bring 3 meters of 5ml cord and we will make the prussic
*2 x 1m Sling
*Daisy Chain
