You are picked up at your accommodation and begin the journey with a spectacular scenic drive along the Callejon de Huaylas Valley and then up to the Village of Collon 1 hour drive. Here our gear is loaded onto the donkeys and we walk up the valley Quebrada Ishinca on a gently rising path to our camp at the head of the valley. This is a lovely walk, passing through Quenual forest. As we walk up the valley it opens out, and we see Tocllaraju ahead. Base Camp is at 4390m. 4 to 5 hours hike
Day 2: Urus 5495m Summit Attempt
We leave camp 2am. A steep climb directly up the moraine ridge to the glacier (4 hours). Then we traverse across boulder slopes below a rock buttress to gain the glacier. We climb the glacier (up to 45°) then we finish on the rocky E ridge (2 hours). Arrive to the summit to see the sunrise on Tocllaraju, Akilpo, Palcaraju, Ishinca and Ranrapalca. A steep descent back down to camp.
Day 3: Rest Day
Day 4: Ishinca 5530m Summit Attempt
We start our climb at 2am. A steady climb initially on a good path to Lake Ishinca (3 hours). Some sections are over loose rock and boulders until we reach the glacier (1 hour). We climb the North West slopes towards the summit tower (2 hours). We return the same way to Base Camp. 10 to 12 hours activity.
We leave Base Camp around 10am. Today we need to carry all our equipment and hike up to High Camp of Tocllaraju. A steep climb on a moraine ridge and across large moraine rocks for 3 hours to where we set up our camp on the moraine immediately below the glacier at Moraine Camp at 5000m.
We leave camp early around 1am and climb to the summit. From the Moraine Camp we climb up the glacier to a shoulder at 5300m. We cross the bowl through complex crevasses heading towards the summit. We then climb a not too steep slope a long a ridge, until we reach a large crevasse at the start of the North West ridge which we follow to the summit of Tocllaraju. In some years there is an impassable bergschrund high on the mountain. From the summit, we descend with several rappels, collect our things from the camp and return down to base camp. 10 to 12 hours activity. Slope angles between 50° to 70°.
Walk out the valley and return to Huaraz. 3 hours walk.
Health and Fitness
To get the most out of your climbing experience with us, you will need to be fit, healthy and well acclimatized to the altitude. You do not need to be an athlete, but a good level of overall fitness is important. As an indication, you should be able to walk for up to 12 hours with a heavy backpack.
